I’ve noticed a lot of Google searches for parging mix turning up on my blog, so here it is:

9 sand: 4 mortar mix: 1 seal bond

That help?  I didn’t think so.  If you put nine shovelfuls of sand on top of four of mortar mix and 1 of seal bond, then add water, you’ll get a mess in your mixer that won’t do anything but rotate in a large, ugly ball.

So I’ll go back and try to explain this from the ground up.

Take a sturdy trailer to a quarry and buy a yard of masonry sand.  My 6 X 4 has handled many of these trips, but be aware that a trailer of that size heaped with dry sand has an additional weight of about 3400 pounds.  Exercise moderation when the guy poises the loader over your trailer.  1’ in the bottom is a good place to start if it’s a strong trailer, 6” if it’s a wide lightweight.  Be sure to have a shovel along to adjust the weight distribution so that it tows properly.

Leave the sand on the trailer.  You’ll waste a lot less and you can move it much closer to the worksite if you can get it out of there afterwards.  Position the mixer within easy working distance of the trailer, but high enough you can dump cleanly into your wheelbarrow.

Come up with a way to store your cement products so that they don’t get wet.  A second wheelbarrow and a nearby garage for overnight work well.

Everybody and his dog has his own way to make mortar.  I’m sure many of them are better than mine, but I’ll tell you what eventually worked out for four tons or so of the stuff.  If the sand and the mixer are dry, mix up the batch dry, then add water.  This hardly ever happens in the real world, so I won’t dwell on it.

Dump four shovelfuls of sand, wet or dry (don’t worry about the cat tracks, no big deal – it all mixes)  into the empty mixer.  If there’s water in it from rinsing out the last batch, no biggie.  Turn on the mixer and add a shovelful or two of mortar mix.  By mortar mix, I don’t mean that instant stuff like Sackrete.  I mean mortar in powder form intended to mix with sand.  Add water and let it mix.  Then add a shovelful of sealbond, a clay mixture known by a bewildering variety of trade names.  It makes the mix buttery, sticky, and easier to handle on a vertical surface.  Gradually add four more sand and one or two of mortar.  From there you go by feel.  Does it look right?  Did the last batch go on too gritty?  Too sticky?  Too dry?  It’s never right, eh?  Keep adjusting until you don’t care anymore.

If it looks perfect while mixing it probably means half of the mix is still dry in the bottom of the drum.  Ideally the mix as it gets buttery should roll off the top of the rotating drum and smoothly join the stuff at the bottom.  This takes a lot of practice.  By the time I had learned how to do that, the job was done, as usual.

Many times I have dumped the completed mix into the wheelbarrow, only to have to shovel it back into the drum because half of it was still powder.  That’s o.k. though it’s best if you don’t have an audience right then.  It mixes a lot better the second time.

The wheelbarrow is an amazing invention capable of allowing a worker to move two hundred pounds of slop over uneven ground to a destination.  Needless to say the physics involved, combined with fatigue, produce some spectacular spills, so it’s wise not to have anything breakable around the wheelbarrow route.

The delightful thing about the wheelbarrow is that, if you can get the thing up the stairs to the main floor of the building receiving the parging, it works very well as a storage bin for the mortar until you load it onto your hod.  There’s plenty in a batch to keep the parger busy for a useful amount of time, as well.

The problem comes when the job moves up to the second floor.  Now I know why those old stone houses had such low ceilings upstairs:  less wall to parge.

Faced with this problem I borrowed a gin pole from my pal Tom.  This rig is a small derrick which mounts on the corner of a conventional scaffolding unit.  It swings freely and has a pulley about 16” out from its axis.  After much fussing I devised a method to pull a 5 gallon pail full of mortar up to the second floor (3rd level of scaffolding), then swing it onto a plywood platform perched between the scaffold and the window sill where it would sit until I dashed upstairs to rescue it before it fell.

This was satisfyingly complex, but too much work.  Eventually I simply filled two five gallon pails, grabbed them, and ran up the stairs.  Two pails were actually easier to lift than a single because they balanced well.  As I got used to it, the weight wasn’t all that bad, and with ten gallons of mortar per trip, I didn’t have to go up and down stairs all that much.

I have found that masonry is among the most serene work in the renovation.  Enjoy your mortar:  from here on in the project will only get worse.

For other articles in this series check:
https://rodcroskery.wordpress.com/category/renovating-a-stone-house/

It’s been nearly five years, but it seems like yesterday that we started to empty out the old stone house attached to my parents’ home on Young’s Hill. The plan was to renovate the space and for Bet and me to move to the farm when the project was complete.  We vowed to build it all, floors, doors, windows, cabinets, but first we had to clear away thirty years of accumulated stuff which filled the building.

After a summer of trips to the dump with overloaded trailers, we looked at the dark, empty house and decided to make every effort to bring natural light into the building. Partitions had to go.  We settled upon a cluster of cabinets and a bathroom around the central stairwell, and the rest would be open on the main floor.

In the early seventies my dad and I had replaced the staircase, a window and a few walls when my sister moved into the house.  The previous renovation had come in 1953 in the aftermath of Hurricane Hazel.  The Youngs had done extensive work to the plaster, dormers and upstairs windows at that time.

According to the evidence, though, the most significant event in the life of the house had occurred long ago, during the time of square nails.  At some point a major fire burned through the floors and charred half of the timbers in the house, as well as darkening the stone behind the plaster over a wide expanse of the southern wall.  Apparently the fire put itself out, because wide tongue-and-groove boards were quickly nailed into place over the scorched timbers, the hearth was torn out of the west wall (leaving a huge cellar-to-attic gap behind the plaster), and new brick chimneys (and stoves, I guess) took over the heating duties.

Not until 1854 did Ontario laws change and allow a full second story to go untaxed, so upstairs the late 1830’s stone cottage had a roof line sloping down to within three feet of the floor. What’s worse, the ceilings drooped downward toward the centre of the house, increasing the claustrophobic effect.

The upstairs was also a warren of little rooms, a useless hallway, and decayed, 1950’s casement windows.  We decided to gut it all, raise the ceilings with new joists, put in insulation and a good vapour barrier, and then devise a new floor and heating plan to make better use of the space.

When we started in the basement you could have thrown a cat through one hole in the northwestern corner.  The cement truck operator showed me how to run concrete into the forms and then build a wooden funnel so that the wall would fill right up to the stones above the gap.  It had never occurred to me that concrete won’t flow uphill.

The only real insulation around the old windows was generations of wasp nests.  The wasps had done a pretty good job of filling up some large cavities behind the panels, but didn’t seem all that annoyed about having their ancestral homes removed.  In three seasons of work around the wasps I don’t know of anyone who was stung.  Wasps are a docile lot.

One interesting item as I tore away at the old walls was the studding and lath with which the walls were built.  The hemlock studs averaged about 2X3 in profile, but the back side of each was fitted to the wall with a few chops from an axe or hatchet.  A nail into the floors, top and bottom, and friction against the stone behind secured this portion of the wall until the lath went on.  I would love to know from where that sawed lumber came in the late 1830’s.  Some of the roof planks are 20″ white cedar, but they show the definite tooth marks of a circular saw.

To my amazement the original lath consisted of 6″ hemlock boards, split several times at one end and then nailed to the stud.  The builder apparently worked his way along with the hatchet, spreading the split board as he went until it covered an area about double its width.  Then the plaster oozed into the cracks in the board.  I had never seen such a thing before, but Curator Anna Greenhorn was pleased to show me similar lath in a preserved ceiling of the Old Mill in Delta.

The new wall studs came courtesy of Rowswell Lumber.  At the time Ed kept full-length pine logs in a beaver pond, and thus could cut stock to order.  I needed a lot of 9 ½’ studs, and Ed said, “No problem.”  Lacking hatchet skills, I used my trusty band saw to fit the new studs to the walls.  That winter I discovered the laser. If nothing else is straight in the building and you have to start somewhere, a laser level screwed to a stud in a corner can be made to provide a vertical line from one end of the building to the other and can serve as both a line and a plumb bob if you know enough to start fitting the studs from the other end.  By the time I got to the last wall, I had figured that one out.

For other articles in this series check:
https://rodcroskery.wordpress.com/category/renovating-a-stone-house/